Dikran Manjian: Gem setter and jeweller

A gem of an artisan
Dikran Manjian
Age: 27
Industry: Metals and Engineering

Dikran Manjian loves solving problems. After completing a five-year apprenticeship, this enthusiastic self-starter carved out his niche encrusting precious gems onto beautiful items of jewellery. He works as designer jeweller, specialising in custom-made wedding rings.

Dikran Hanjian has spent many years honing his craft in the jewellery manufacturing industry. A job he loves because he is constantly solving problems and the learning never stops.

"My mind never sits idle," he explains.

"Being a jeweller is an artisan trade. You need to see a piece and plan it on paper before you can actually make it." "And no two jobs are ever the same."

Referring to the role of a jewellery artisan harks back to a rich trades tradition which is almost as old as when man found the first mineral deposits. Through the ages and across cultures the craft of jewellery manufacturing is strongly linked to the related trade skills of blacksmithing, silver and goldsmithing.

Creative spark
As a wide-eyed youngster, Dikran was captivated my marine life and toyed briefly with the idea of becoming a marine biologist.

"Then later I was interested in Architecture because of its creative history and evolution."

But the business of making jewellery soon won him over after going to various workshops owned and run by family friends. Upon finishing high school he launched himself straight into an apprenticeship, which involved on the job training and TAFE studies namely a Certificate III in Jewellery Manufacture at the Enmore College of Design.

He completed his apprenticeship over five years and in three different workshops ranging from a small self-employed gem setter to a large manufacturing company and finishing up at an upmarket jewellery store.

"I realised that from a commercial perspective it would make sense to set up a niche in gemstone setting, so I spent the final part of my apprenticeship working with finer, more expensive pieces."

He also gained a Diploma in Gemmology at the Gemmological Association of Australia, of which he is now a fellow.

Going it alone
In 2003 Dikran had an opportunity to take on greater risk and started up his own business, Manjian Design Works, in Sydney's busy CBD. His main line of work is as a stone setter for various retail stores and clients.

"While most shops have a jeweller inhouse they might not have a setter so they outsource. I finish the piece off by setting gems and sending it back."

The process of gem setting requires patience and a meticulous eye for detail, encrusting the gem stones safely and securely, so they are not marked or damaged in the process.

"To do this no glues are used," Dikran explains."Instead I use hand tools that cut, shape, tap and form metal employing skills that are carried over from hand-engraving and metalworking."

The second part of his business uses his training in jewellery manufacturing where he creates custom-made pieces for clients, specialising in engagement and weddng rings.

"A couple may come to me with something in mind, and using my gem knowledge and skills I can source and cut the best stones within their budget, then using my trade: I design and create the piece."

Connecting with clients
Dikran says communication skills are very important in his day-to-day work.

"In this business you rely on return customers for growth and continuity, so of course we need to sell a quality product and outstanding service."

For Dikran, one of the highlights of his job is working for himself.

"And while I do put in a lot of hours there is such a sense of satsifaction with each job I complete and the direct feedback I receive from clients."

"The more you put in, the more recognition you get."

Best part?
The creativity, coupled with the strong demand on my problem solving skills, in order to complete a piece.

Hardest part?
The patience and finesse requried while working to tight deadlines.

What personal qualities do you need to succeed?
An eye for detail, combined with patience and excellent communication skill, problem-solving skills and a keen interest in visual arts and design.

Biggest myth about your trade?
That jewellers are not trustworthy. The reality is most bench jewellers are in their career for life, so it's in their best interest to sell a quality product and service.

What is your greatest achievement?
Having my work published in cataloges and magazines, and working on pieces that have made the finals in a design competition.

Advice?
To get into a jewellery apprenticeship, experience is not always necessary. Enthusiasm and reliability opens doors, as some workshops like to train their apprentices within their own style.